Europe

Day 1: 20 July
We left home at 7.30 on Friday morning, heading for Dover to catch the ferry over to Calais. Before leaving we purchased a Satallite Navigator so we turned that on to see if it was going to work!! I'm not sure what would have happened if it didn't!! Our crossing was 2pm and it was on time. Once we landed, we suddenly experienced the right hand side of the road and followed the E40 all the way to Brussells.Our hotel provided free transport into the city centre so we viewed the busy night life around the Grand Place.
Day 2:
This time we walked into the city and explored it by foot before returning to our car and leaving the city about 1pm to head for Norden, Germany.
We stayed with Lilly and Uwe, who were Janine's host parents when she was in Germany as an AFS exchange student in '94. They came out to stay with us in '97 so it was really great to see them again. When she was with them they were on Norderney Island and she had to travel by ferry each day to go to school. A very different experience for her. They also attended school on Saturday as well but I have since found out that Janine told Lilly it was against her religion to go to school on a Saturday!!
We arrived at about 7.30 and chatted well into the night!
Day 3:
We caught the ferry to Norderney to see and explore all the familiar places Janine knew so well. Uwe is a sea captain and also knew the captain of the ferry so we were able to spend the journey up on the Captain's bridge. Norderney is a very popular summer holiday island and the population swells from 3000 to 25000 during the summer months. Lilly and Uwe used to own a house with holiday apartments. It was a great day and so interesting to see the places I had heard so much about. Before returning to Norden, we visited Uwe's brother for a cup of tea, another family Janine knew well. That evening Uwe cooked a barbeque dinner for us, three meats, pork, lamb and a German sausage to finish.
Day 4:
Lilly had to work in the afternoon so Uwe took us to Greetsiel, which is an old fishing village on the coast and a very popular holiday spot. There was a 250yr old windmill we climbed up to explore, and it is still used at times to make flour. We drove further down the coast to a place where one of Germany's three major gas lines come in from the North Sea. This is where we sat in the sun, drank coffee, watched the action and glanced across at Holland. They were also unloading large concrete partitions of a windmill used for generating electricity, the same as at home in NZ. But there are many more of them everywhere, no doubt we will follow! On our return we called in to Lilly's bookshop and walked home through the park. That evening we took them out to dinner at Minnie's, a very nice place to enjoy a meal together.
Day 5:
Uwe works as a sea captain on a boat about 2 hours drive from here. He works one week on and one week off, Tuesday to Tuesday so he left this day to go to work. Obviously he stays on the boat which means we won't see him again unless we can persuade them to come to NZ for another visit! We decided to go to Groningen, a lovely smaller township in the Netherlands and then on to Amsterdam for the night. Unfortunately it rained really hard in Groningen so we took off earlier to Amsterdam. That evening we caught the bus into the city centre, walked the streets and viewed the extra curricular activity available! Then the following day we visited the Anne Frank house and Vincent Van Gögh museum. Both were really interesting and well worth the visit. At 5 pm we started back to Norden and arrived back at about 9pm. It was great just being so close to the border which allowed us to visit the Netherlands as we thought we may have to miss it out.
Day 6:
A quieter day in Norden; viewed their 700yr old church and wandered around the little township. We also caught up on washing, our blogsite and generally had a lazy day before leaving for Berlin to stay with Benjamin (Lilly & Uwe's son)for 3 nights.
Day 7:
It was really sad to say goodbye to the Sieberns but as I mentioned before, maybe they will take another trip our way! Berlin is about a 6 hour drive, so we timed it nicely and arrived outside Benjamin's door at 6.15, just as we had predicted!!! We were just so fortunate to stay in his student flat, in the old Eastern Berlin. This is a very popular residential area for varsity students due to the reasonable rents, but he is not sure how long this will last. He is completing his doctorate, all in law, so he will be very well qualified when he has finished. Benjamin is staying with his girlfriend Kathrin, during our stay. Just around the corner are several cafes and the four of us enjoyed a typical German meal at one of them. After lots of walking and sampling 2 other bars for a nightcap, we were ready for bed at 1am!!!They are both such a delightful couple.
Day 8:
They met us at 10am and we were ready for a fully packed day to see Berlin. Benjamin is just so knowlegable about everything so I certainly didn't need to drag my Lonely Planet around as well!! Our tour went from east to west!
The most significant thing we noticed at first was the graffiti everywhere. After a while we accepted it as just part of the old eastern side and when we approached the inner area, it became cleaner.We saw the redeveloped boulevards and buildings which are certainly very tastefully presented. However in saying this the ones still waiting repair have character too! There are still many very large buildings unoccupied because of the expense for large companies to move here. The unused railway line passed a Jewish school and a monument placed nearby where the Jews were herded onto the trains during the war. As we walked further, we passed a beautiful Jewish Synagogue and Protestant church before coming to the island developed for museums - just millions spent on this, as yet, unfinished project. We just went into some of their entrance ways - mind bogling. B & K showed us their university and library where both of them have spent many hours! Opernplatz (renamed August Bebel Platz) because of the book burning ceremony that happened under Hitler's rule - thousands of irreplaceable books burnt and now a glass memorial marks the spot. We stopped for a coffee at a cafe under the old railway station. From here we went on to the main east / west artery road - Unter den Linden which has been restored after not being used for 28 years when the wall was in place. It is just so long that we took a bus up it to take us to the Parizer Platz, a new exclusive development built on former closed off wasteland, near the Brandenburg Gate.Wow, it was just so breathtaking to see the "Gate" - a place with such dense and meaningful significance spanning over 100s of years.In '61 this was the first place to be sealed off for construction of the wall and then in Oct. '89 another celebration as the first chipping away occurred. Now in the west! We saw many potions of the wall left as a monument. Modern high-rises have been built in "dead mans land" between the two areas. In fact huge modern shopping plazas and office areas. B works part time for a Lawyer's firm on the 10th floor of one so he took us up to the top in an elevator that covers 25 floors in 20secs! Fastest in Europe apparently. Anyway a great view of Berlin from up there! On from here is a monument to all the Jews that suffered in the war. It is difficult to explain but very tastefully done - I will do my best to describe it. There are 2500 grey concrete coffin shapes, tall, flat, leaning different ways amongst pathways that are irregular and up and down! Oh dear that really doesn't fit at all but it is said to describe them all as different people suffering in separate ways.
We walked until 7pm so returned to our flat by tram to rest for an hour before enjoying a meal in a restaurant where B and K's friend works - a most enjoyable meal and company. What an action packed day but just so interesting.This time we hit bed at 2am!!
Day 9:
I'm pleased to say we didn't start until 11am! They took us to the new elaborate parliament buildings. These have been very tastefully designed with a bridge over the canal to represent both sides of Berlin.We lined up for over an hour to enter the old government building which is now their debating chamber but also with a large glass dome on top for people to visit and view the city. Well worth the wait. From here lunch at one of the uni cafes where B worked for 7 years. While there the rain just poured down so we drove to the new National Gallery to see the temporary art exhibition from the Metropolitan Museum of Art in New York. Late 18 - early 19c - Van Gogh, Money, Picasso etc - all originals of course. Great.Back to B's flat where he helped us to load more information onto our Nat Sav so it can lead us straight to our accomodation, no matter where!! Out to an Italian restaurant for dinner as our final farewell. What a wonderful 2 days and just fantastic hosts to devote their weekend to us. Benjamin had to collect his suit for work the next day so we took his photo in it as he said Janine will never believe he could ever look so professional!!
Day 10:
Left for Coswig, just n/w of Dresden. A delightful little township. After dinner we took a little walk in a nearby park and we were hit onto by a desperate young man who thought we traded drugs! He must have been really out of it to approach such an unlikely couple!! However it gave me a real fright.
Day 11:
Motored into Dresden for the morning. Considering it was reduced to a smouldering heap of ruins at the end of WW11 it has been reconstructed as near to possible to its previous glory. There is still much construction in progress. Their aim was to restore all the historic buildings left as ruins and you can see where the old and new have been used in its reconstruction. After lunch we moved further south to the Czech Republic. My mate with a NZ passport delayed proceedings by about an hour - no problems, just routine!!!Thank goodness for our Nat Sav to direct us to our accomodation, a brilliant invention as it would've taken us forever.
Day 12: August 1
Caught a tram into central Prague and joined a walking tour for 31/2 hours. Prague is just such a beautiful city with an abundance of awe inspiring, historic buildings. Our walk included the Charles Bridge and castle. Inclusive in the castle compound is St Vitus Cathedral with 287 steps to the top - I know that is correct!! A wonderful view however which compensated for the climb. Finally caught the tram back at 7pm.
Day 13:
Back into the city for a wander around the central area and then we visited one of the synagogues. This city had one one of the highest Jewish populations of Europe (118,00), 28,000 escaped before the war and 80,000 were transported and killed. This synagogue showed all the names on the wall and the children's drawings smuggled out of the concentration camp. We also took a boat trip as another viewing aspect of the city. Lots more walking again but an enjoyable time here.
Day 14
Before leaving Prague, we caught the tram into the city market one more time. The Czech Republic is renowned for its wooden toys so we had to buy something for our grandchild Chloe! It was difficult to choose! When driving to Munich, we travelled through some rolling countryside with crops of various kinds growing everywhere. It was a day of a few more hills than we had been used to so far. In no time at all we were through the border and into Germany again.
Day 15
We were up and out early in the morning and caught the tube into Munich city centre. We hopped off the tube at Kalzplatz and wandered down to Marienplatz. The city was full of life as street musicians and artists were there to entertain the crowd. It was when we were standing by the Neues Rathaus waiting for the carillon to jingle into action at noon, that we noticed a student enticing people to join his group for a free walking tour of the city. This was a great way to see the sights and hear the history at the same time. We stopped for lunch at the Vitualienmakt, the city’s main market place for the last 200 years. This was where Ian enjoyed his first stein with a hot beef sandwich! Later at the Hofbrauhaus he managed 2 more! This place, described as the most famous pub in the world, is the epitome of the Munich beer hall, with spacious chambers, hard benches, well-worn tables, crowds of revellers and traditional oompah music. This was apparently the favourite haunt of Hitler when he was trying to establish the Nazi party. Not only did we have a stein or two but a HUGE pig hock and cabbage between us. An appropriate way to end our day.
Day 16
We visited the Dacau Concentration Camp which is northwest of Munich. It was this camp that was used as a model for all other camps and has been left as a memorial in the hope that nothing as barbaric as this ever happens again. One building has an extensive area of photos and graphic details, that present a realistic picture of the horrific suffering of those prisoners. You can then walk into their sleeping quarters, torture rooms and see the assembly area, wire fence and lookout towers. How anyone actually survived is a miracle. It was a sombre morning but it made all those stories about the jews and their persectution, a reality.
From here it was on to Innsbruck. Another day of slow traffic. We were not sure why, maybe just Europe in the summer. However, each time we have experienced this, it has been a Sunday so maybe that had something to do with it. We were quite surprised by the number of “newer” cars that were stopped on the side of the road with the hood up, cooling down. We just sailed passed!! Now we were into the mountainous country and no flat land in sight! Our accommodation was on the mountainside but within walking distance to the city. We had an interesting stroll into the city and strudel for dinner. What else should one have in Austria?
Day 17
What a magic morning! We caught the cable car up the mountain, where in winter it must be extremely busy with skiers but this day it was full of trampers, except for us! The day was clear and crisp. Why it was so magic is we arrived up there to the sound of cowbells – the only sound to break the quietness around. Unfortunately we couldn’t climb to the top as time wouldn’t allow, so we walked around a track to a coffee house to sit and absorb the view before heading back down. Our next place to stay was Dorfgastein, 65 kms south of Salzburg so we needed to be on our way! We travelled through some beautiful countryside and through tunnel after tunnel to reach there. We just loved the little villages with their houses and window boxes full of flowering annuals – just beautiful.
Day 18
This day we spent some time in Werfen and Hallien, smaller villages on route to Salzburg. We enjoyed some of these little places as much as the bigger cities. Salzburg was bypassed to reach Vienna.
Day 19
On our evening stroll down Josefstrasse to look for a place for dinner, we came across a film festival including many stalls offering all types of food. So of course we not only enjoyed our dinner but sat and watched the film on Jazz in Berlin too. A massive screen was set up outside the Fredrich-Schmidt Platz – or in our language the town hall!! Thank goodness it didn’t rain as at one stage we did think it was likely. An internet café was open until midnight so we checked our email on the way home!
Day 20
Wandered back into the city centre and visited St. Stephen’s Cathedral, Stepan Platz, St Charles Borromeo and inside the ‘town hall!’- breathtaking in size and structure. In the afternoon we caught a tube out to the Schonbrunn Palace - magnificient gardens but we didn’t go through the ‘paid’ part of the palace. While we were in the city earlier in the day we purchased tickets to go and see Wiener Mozart Concert in the Musikverein Golden Saal that evening. In our language – the Golden Theatre. We thought it appropriate to enjoy a concert while in Vienna! A wonderful evening.
Day 21
Off to Slovenia. Thank goodness they changed to using Euro in January as it is such a hassle having to buy other currency now. What beautiful scenery on the backroads to Lake Bohinjsko – once again a mixture of lakes, mountains and cultivated areas of crops. We suddenly realized we haven’t seen any fences for ages, for obvious reasons! Ian particularly wanted to stop by Lake Bled where the World Rowing Championships were held many years ago. It is a very expensive but beautiful spot to stay with quite exclusive housing and hotels. Our spot for the night was also lovely and quiet and we particularly enjoyed being out of the city. This was the first opportunity we had to cook our dinner on our portable barbeque – oh so peaceful.
Day 22
Thank goodness we didn’t have any car trouble this day as we took the really back roads to Sezena, climbing, climbing and climbing until we crossed the border and hit the first toll road to Venice. It was when we were on these roads that we felt we were really ‘seeing’ the country but unfortunately not always possible to use.
Day 23
Venice is unique for many reasons but where else in the world can you explore a city without contesting road transport. We bought a day bus and boat pass for 13Euro. The city is a labyrinth of lanes which usually end at an arched bridge over one of the canals. The Rialto and St Marks Basilica are the two main tourist areas with the streets of souvenir shops connecting the two. We looked and looked at glassware and then caught a boat up the Grand Canal to St Marks Square and the Basilica – didn’t enter as the queue was as long as! The square is certainly host to flocks of pigeons so we tried to keep under the arched area! We ferried back to Toma and walked to the quieter area of San Polo square for lunch. Not only were there less tourists but the food price was more acceptable. Finally made some glass purchases and hope it eventually arrives home, all in one piece. Caught the ferry again out to Lido Island for a couple of hours before returning to Rialto and then our bus station. Dinner was somewhere inbetween. A great day in such a different city. We were really surprised at the clean looking water and it was garbage free.
Day 24
It was a long travelling day in the heat and in a car with no air-conditioning!! Oops – yes we did, the natural way with windows down and our sunroof open! We started off on the highway (not motorway) to view the countryside but once again it was a Sunday and extra slow going so switched to the toll motorway for the last 200kms. We wished we had counted the tunnels as there were many – 10.3kms was the longest. The fields were full of sunflowers at many different stages of growth, so guess the oil (and whatever else) process wouldn’t be far off. A fairly uneventful trip and arrived at the hotel about 7.30 so not too bad going.
Day 25
A friend advised us to line up for the St Peter’s Basilica at 5.30am to be near the beginning of the queue. Well we thought that was just too early, but we were waiting at the bus stop at 6.45 as it was a bus, tube & bus ride away. However we should have taken her advice as we arrived at the queue at 10am and we were shuffling forward for another 3 hours before the ticket box came into view. We were very tired by then in the 33+deg heat but it was worth it. However a young lad made the mistake of trying to jump the queue in front of us, just as we reached the ticket box. Needless to say he received the tap on the shoulder by Ian and told in no uncertain terms to go and line up like everyone else. He pretended he couldn’t speak English but funnily enough he soon understood the message when Ian pretended to call the police who were nearby. I bet he still didn’t line up for 3 hours though! Really a day just here would not be enough time to soak up everything. The Sistine Chapel alone is just so breathtakingly beautiful.
We walked the Vatican arena and then caught a bus back to the city and walked to the Trevi fountain. No I didn’t throw a coin to ensure I would return to Rome!
Day 26
Checkout was not until noon so we went into the city again to see the Colosseum and Palatine. The largest part of the Palatine, (which is more than 150 acres) as it appears today, is covered by ruins of a vast complex built for the emperor Domitian.
The Colosseum is just a massive structure built in AD 72!! It could seat more than 50,000, to watch the gladiator combats and wild beast shows. I found this just so fascinating. Time and time again we have seen amazing constructions by the Romans that still stand today.
On our return to the hotel, it was a quick shower and off to Siena.
When we started our car it was a little unusually sluggish but it eventually came to life and we were away again. The reason was that an internal light had been left on and of course we hadn’t used the car for 2 days. Before we reached our accommodation we came across Monteriggioni; consisted of a medieval castle on a hill and within its walls a quaint little village with accommodation and little shops. Our dinner was at a quaint corner café nearby, run by two older men who were obviously managing it very well.
Our accommodation was in the nearby village of Strove and it was just what I had always imagined a typical Italian village to be like. As we arrived home each day the local community would be sitting outside in the shade, sharing the day’s stories. (I guess!!)
Day 27
Our car still not starting as quickly as usual! We drove within 2km of Siena and then caught a local bus. Each time we did this in the various European cities, one of us would suddenly remember to take down the number of the bus and the name of the place where we actually left the car!! Not a bad idea really!!! As we wandered into the city centre we noticed that many shops were closed and crowds of local people were wearing scarves that surely represented some kind of team or other. Well unbeknown to us it was the day before the 11Palio. This spectacular event, held twice yearly on 2 July and 16 August, in honour of the Virgin Mary, dates from the Middle Ages and features a series of colourful pageants, a wild horse race around 11 Campo, and much eating, drinking and celebrating in the streets. Ten of Siena’s 17 town districts compete for the coveted palio and here we were right in the midst of it all. The day before is just about more important than the actual race day. The horse race is not what we had pictured in our mind! It is run in 11Campo, a magnificient, shell shaped, slanting square which has been the city’s civic centre since it was laid out in the mid 14th century. It is an important place for people to gather, have a coffee or meal. The ‘track’ around it is covered with sand for the race. For not much more than one exhilarating minute, the 10 horses and their bareback riders tear three times around 11Campo with a speed and violence that make your hair stand on end.
Even if a horse loses its rider, it is still eligible to win, and since many riders fall each year, it is the horses in the end that are the focus of the event. There is only one rule: riders are not to interfere with the reins of other horses.
As we were wandering around we saw a falcon display advertised and thought we would have a look. After walking down lots of narrow alleyways and through someone’s garden we reached the venue. They were charging an astronomical amount to enter so Ian decided there was no way he was paying that so we trudged back up the hill again!! In fact we could see enough from the top of the hill to satisfy his curiosity anyway. I had actually seen a falcon display at a school camp so it didn’t worry me!
Their cathedral is one of Italy’s great Gothic churches, so we visited that before returning to our car. This time we returned to Monteriggioni for dinner.
Day 28
Our car was now really beginning to cause us concern. Once we were under way it was fine. We tootled up to Pisa to see the leaning tower. Ian was going to climb to the top but the wait was just too long and we still had to reach Milan later that day, so that was a little disappointing. Pisa was a busy little township as it is no doubt, everyday of the summer holidays! When we returned to our car to carry on with our journey it just would not budge at all. Oh dear! Fortunately Ian joined us up with the RAC ( opposition to AA) so we purchased a local phone card and made a call back to the UK. Ian was sure it was either the battery or the starter motor. Well within an hour the guy came out and tested it. Through sign language, we gathered it was either one of these and he sent us to a garage 15km away as this was the only one open due to it being a national holiday. Once he fired it up, off we went and eventually found the garage. The mechanic indicated it was the battery, so once that was replaced we were in business again – whew! Lucky us. I was visualizing us leaving on the side of the road and completing our journey in a rental. How pessimistic!! I also thought how lucky we were to have it happen in a township and not at a picnic spot we often stopped at to have our coffee. I didn’t let Ian stop the car until we reached Milan!
Day 29
A day of catching up on emails and then headed into central Milan. Still a national holiday, so only the central city area open. Being the world’s design capital, we walked down a street with names like Gucci, Prada etc. I can’t think of them all at present and it is really disappointing as I wrote them down as I was walking down this one particular street and now I can’t find the list! Anyway they didn’t appear to have any customers in them unlike the ‘Sara’ shop down the road! We walked to a large park near the city centre and enjoyed the sunshine before returning to our hotel.
Day 30
On to Zurich. Heavy traffic and 20+ tunnels, the longest today was 17kms. The scenery varied from rolling hills to steep mountainsides, lakes and valleys. It was beautiful countryside to travel through and once again so different from any so far.
Day 31
This time we caught a train into the centrum. As it was Sunday, only the shops in the railway station were open. Europe really is very sensible and still regard Sunday as a rest and family day for all businesses, except restaurants and cafes. We joined a tour group to view the city which involved a bus ride and some walking. As to be expected, the lake side is very exclusive to those who have money to invest!
Day 32
Off to Lucerne where we spent the morning before heading off to Lausanne for our night’s accommodation. The lakes in Switzerland are as picturesque as seen on postcards. Lausanne is a beautiful city too, and once again an exclusive holiday area. Half of this lake is in France. We sat by the waterside and enjoyed our dinner, taking in the lights on the lake and the peacefulness around.
Day 33
On to St. Maximin in Povence, where we were staying for 6 nights. This place called ‘Absolutely Fabulous’ was recommended by some friends as well as a NZer here in Norfolk so we knew we would enjoy what was to come! It did take some finding however, even though the village was small! Our wonderful host Hester (NZer) purchased this 14th century farm house / barn 3 years ago and converted it into 3 self-contained units. When we arrived, there was a lovely bottle of wine in the fridge together with nibbles, cheese, fresh fruit and pate. She greeted us like we were old lost friends. After settling in we were enjoying our wine and nibbles on our balcony when one of the guests from upstairs came down and asked if we could speak English. I just stared at her as her face looked very familiar and then she said ‘I know you don’t I?’ Well it was Neen Daws (nee Williams) who I used to play squash with 20 years ago in Whangarei. Consequently we enjoyed two catch up nights with them. She was travelling with her husband, cousin and her husband who live in Wales.
Day 34
There were so many quaint places to visit we didn’t know where to go first. However what we were relishing was the fact we didn’t have to pack up in 2 days time to move on!! St Quinten de Poterie was just a short drive away so we wandered around there. It is a town traditionally dedicated to crafts associated with earth and fire. A fascinating place, and certainly worth a visit if you are interested in pottery. A lovely relaxing day to enjoy the countryside. Back home for a siesta and then up to Neen’s for drinks before Hester cooked us a delicious dinner using the fresh local produce.
Day 35
Off to Avignon for the day to visit the walled city and Palais Des Papes. This is a prime example of the wealth amassed by the papacy during the ‘Babylonian Captivity’. Admission to this also included the Pont St-Benezet, a bridge built between 1177 & 1185 to link Avignon with a settlement across the Rhone. This 900m long wooden structure was repaired and rebuilt several times before all but four of its 22 spans were washed away once and for all in the mid- 1600s. On our return there were drinks at our place and Hester was able to join us too. Neen and Co had booked dinner at a nearby restaurant and we were still enjoying the local bottled produced when they returned!! Hester was most impressed with Ian’s hosting skills and was insisting he must have a brother, so watch out Harold!!
Day 36
Hester left for Paris this day and Neen and co headed north so we had the place to ourselves for 3 nights. Just as well as we needed these days to recuperate!! We drove to Les Beaux de Provence. This was a quaint little village, built on top of a hill - very touristy but interesting too. Further on there was the Cathedrale D’Images, in the heart of the Alpilles mountains. This was a film show shown in caves which had been (and still is being) developed for this type of display. The caves have been dug out like a huge open plan house with flat, vertical walls 20 metres high and at different angles. The film is projected onto these to give a 3D effect with accompanying music – amazing acoustics. It is very difficult to describe but something you probably wouldn’t experience anywhere else. This year’s presentation was a journey through Venice, showing its art and culture. On the way home, we travelled on the back roads, through different surrounding villages and countryside. We cooked a barbeque tea and then walked around St Maximin, something we hadn’t done since being there.
Day 37
The Saturday market in Uzes is the biggest in Provence. We had experienced the difficulty finding a car park in the town on a normal day so we were up early and into the town by 7.45 for the market day. Everything imaginable was for sale including wonderful fresh produce, fresh fish and meat. The various types of pate, hummus and pickles were just in huge bowls, ready to dish out any required amount! Their fresh bread is so scrumptious and obviously the locals head there early to buy their choice, because by the time we thought about it, the best was sold. When we headed back to our apartment we realized we had bought more gifts than any suitcase will hold so it looks like we will be shipping a box home! It was another amazing experience and just so interesting to wander around and hear the banter and soak up the atmosphere.
After lunch we drove out to Pont du Gard (a monument on the UNESCO heritage list) which is a demonstration of Roman technical skills. It is the finest and best preserved part of the aqueduct built to convey water from a spring near Uzes to Nimes. The work started in AD 38 and was completed in AD52. It was another hot (32+) day with lots of walking. Our dinner was fresh fish (plaice) from the market and most enjoyable.
Day 38
It was so quiet and cool at our apartment that we just relaxed and read for the day. It was wonderful! In the afternoon we had arranged to meet Judy & Mike Shaw (friends from Hamilton) who were in Barjac, (a little further north than St. Maximin) and over here for a month’s holiday.
They were travelling with Judy’s sister and brother-in-law. We met at a local bar in Uzes and chatted non stop about each other’s experiences. It was just great to see them again.
Day 39
A long driving day, 290 kms to Limoges. Very, very hot with our limited air conditioning! Once again we ventured on the back roads and saw more animals this time, green grass and field after field of sunflowers.
Day 40
In the morning, we visited the village Oradour-sur-Glane, north west of Limoges. This village was the site of a horrific SS massacre in 1944. When the SS detachment rumbled into town the men were divided into groups and forced into barns where they were gunned down before the structures were set alight. Several hundred women and children were herded into the church, before a bomb was detonated. Those who tried to escape through the windows were shot before the building was set alight as well. The Nazi troops then burned down the entire town. Only one woman and five men survived; 642 people, including 205 children, were killed. Since these events, the entire village has been left untouched to serve as a memorial. The tram tracks and overhead wires, the electricity lines and rusting hulks of 1930’s vehicles give a pretty good idea of what the town must have looked like on the morning of the massacre. After the war a new town was built a few hundred metres west of the ruins.
Later we travelled to Vayres to see Sherryle and Maurice Bennett’s village but we weren’t sure which was their house. After this, on to Tours – not so far and a more pleasant day for travelling.
Day 41
We used the local transport and caught the bus into town. The cathedral was one of the best yet, for stained glass windows. I keep thinking we are just not going to see another as good as the last, and then up pops one more! After a quick orientation of the city we returned to collect our car so we could drive to Amboise. This picturesque town is nestled under its fortified chateau on the southern bank of the Loire. King Charles V111 enlarged it and King Francois 1 held raucous parties here. Time didn’t allow us to visit this as we wanted to go to Le Clos Luce, Leonardo da Vinci’s manor house, which contained restored rooms and scale models of his inventions, including a proto-automobile, armoured tank, parachute and hydraulic turbine. It’s a fascinating place offering a unique insight into the mind of the genius. He came to live here under the invitation of Francois 1 but died 3 years later.

Just before I move out of France I want to add:
*Camembert was cheaper than most other cheeses so we mainly lived on that with our fresh bread and pickles. By the time we would stop for our cup of coffee during our travelling days, the cheese would just about run out of the car to meet us!! The cheese on offer at a fromagerie (cheese shop) was just to die for and it was very difficult to choose something different even though the fromagerie were very good at allowing you to try before buying. Also the Patisseries were very difficult to by-pass and we indulged from those as well. Oh dear, the hips! (not Ian’s of course!) ,

Day 42
There was intense cropping everywhere on our way up to Brugge. Smooth roads but the longest day ( I think I keep saying this but this day really was!!) for kms and hours on the road – 380kms and 11 hours!! It was mainly of our own choice as we didn’t go on one motorway! Just drove from one little village to the other.
Day 43
From our hotel we could walk everywhere. We viewed the rambling shambles of a church Onze Lieve Vrouwekerk – it holds the Madonna & Child. The cobbled streets and canals set it apart from many other cities. Unfortunately we went on a boat trip on the canal which really wasn’t worth the money. A quaint and atmospheric city, with chocolate shop after chocolate shop---yes we now know why Belgium is the ‘Chocolate Capital’ of the world.
Day 44
Left for Calais and home to Gorleston. We could take our time reaching the ferry so we diverted through Dunkirk and some other little Belgium villages. The most important task before leaving was topping up our supplies of cheap, French wine! We met people on the ferry that take their vehicle across to France just for the day to load up on wine. They say the net saving is UK300 pound per trip---big wine drinkers!!

Reflection:
Our accommodation worked out really well, especially as most places were on the city fringe and it was great to use the local transport. Also it was easier and safer parking for the car.
Drivers in Italy and France tended to be more horn happy - although nothing compares to the scooters in Vietnam!
Best advice given to us was to take a travelling jug, as no accommodation had tea making facilities. This also provided us with hot water for our thermos for the next day. We enjoyed stopping at the rest areas for a cuppa. Our next best thing was the satellite navigator, as invariably we would arrive close to the destination with no local map and definitely no local language.